Planting
Bare Root
Planting: |
Planting A Tree |
Trees and shrubs are living plants that must be handed with care at all times. Digging up a tree in the field reduces and exposed the root system, leading to stress once the plant is in the customer's hands. There is nothing, a nurseryman can do which will guarantee survival. However, if one is careful in handling and transplanting, plants can be established with a high rate of success. |
Planting |
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Bare Root |
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Dig large hole to permit roots to be spread out. |
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Prepare soil properly before filling back in around the
roots, using a mixture of 1/3 peat moss and 2/3 good garden soil. If soil is very heavy
consider adding sand or vermiculite for better drainage. |
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Prune away any broken or cracked roots. |
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Plant about 1-2 inches deeper than original soil mark on
the trunk. |
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Never allow the exposed root to dry out in the sun or
wind. |
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When refilling hole be sure to pack the soil in around
the roots, leaving a small basin shade for water holding purposes. |
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The use of a mild transplant fertilizer is also
recommended at this stage. It is important that a starter formation be observed i.e.
5-15-5 (preferably with a rooting promoter). If a stronger formulation is used, damage to
the roots may occur. |
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The use of manure at this stage is not recommended due
to the higher nitrogen content. |
Containerized |
Container to be removed before planting. |
 Plant all container stock 1" deeper than it stood in the container.
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Containerized small shrubs and
low evergreens such as junipers and mugho pine may be removed from the container and
planted with roots intact. |
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Plastic or metal containers must always be
removed. If there is danger of the earth falling from the roots, carefully cut up the pot
with a sharp knife. |
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Paper type containers designed to decompose,
however, in harsh dry areas such as the prairies it is better to break the sides of the
container as the material may constrict the tree roots. |
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If a tree has been held in a container and it
has grown to where the roots spiral, remove the container and make several vertical cuts
up the side of the earth root ball. This will prevent root girdling and induce lateral
root development necessary to stabilize the tree as it grows. |
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Follow general planting instructions as in A
section. |
Hedges |
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To insure uniform growth in
your hedge, uniformity in planting must be stressed. |
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Using a stretched line as a
guide, a trench or individual holes are excavated, making sure roots will be |
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Plants should be set down deep enough so that
lower branches touch soil to insure quick rooting. |
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Refer to A. section for planting instructions. |
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After planting, hedge should than be trimmed
evenly to insure uniformity and density. |
 1.Informal hedge remains natural. Head back for density; remove deadwood. |
 2. Poor way to shear formal hedge. Top dominates; light can't reach leaves. |
 3. Fair pruning method, but still not the best way to keep bottom growth dense.
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 4. Best way to prune to insure that density will last greatest number of years. |
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After the hedge has had its initial pruning
at planting time (see planting instructions) plants should be permitted to grow back to
their original height before cutting them back again. This procedure allows the hedge to
thicken. When the hedge has reached its desired height, general shaping can then proceed.
In order to maintain uniform growth, hedge should be pruned so that sides are sloped to
make hedge slightly narrower at the top than at the base. This method will allow more
light to enter and keep the hedge alive and healthy much longer. If continual pruning
causes the hedge to look open and coarse, the best thing to do is drastically cut it back
to within 6" of the ground. Vigorous new growth will then emerge giving a fresh new
appearance. This drastic pruning should be done during dormancy and can be done with most
shrubs. |
Bracing and Staking |
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Tall trees should be staked or braced for the first year to prevent high winds from loosening them. Staking or bracing is also recommended for trees which have been grown crooked.
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A 2x2 wooden stake is set in the ground on the side of the prevailing wind near the newly planted tree.
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Guy wires should be inserted
into a piece of old garden hose to prevent injury to the tree and then attached to the
wooden stake. Large trees which have been mechanically transplanted may require 3 guy
wires anchored in the ground with 1x2 stakes and hose protectors around the trunk. |
Watering |
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The success or failure of a plant to grow and
flourish is directly related to the amount of water it receives . |
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Do not depend solely on lawn sprinklers for
watering trees as it rarely gives it enough water to penetrate to the deep roots. |
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A depression at the base of the newly planted
tree allows for water retention. |
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Water newly planted trees once or twice a week
during hot summer days. |
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If the weather is very hot and dry, water all
young trees that were planted in the previous 2 or 3 years. |
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